This is not just the best bread you'll
have ever made; it's the best bread you'll have ever eaten. Your friends will
not believe you made it, and they certainly won't believe that you didn't need
to knead it or fuss with it or do anything other than stir it together with a
wooden spoon while you were watching angel-sized snowflakes drift past your
window. In fact, it will so totally not occur to dinner guests that you
yourself baked so stunning a loaf that you may need to say a little modest
something, such as, "Is the bread okay? I worried that it was a little
too…" Delicious? No. "… crusty." That's a nice, humble way to
alert them, don't you think? It is crusty--and also tangy and fragrant and
beautiful. It is a revelation, not totally unlike sex, and you will walk around
with a secret, knowing smile, eager to return to the yeasty embrace of your
dough.
The recipe makes enough dough for three loaves--about a week's
worth--which means that you can quite readily, if you want, mix up a batch of
dough once a week and bake all the bread your family eats. Which is what I do.
Which sounds so crazy, even to me, that I have been afraid to write about it.
But there it is. It costs very little, and the bread is as wholesome as you
make it, and it's wildly delicious, and it will give you such a home-makery,
off-the-grid satisfaction. Bring on the Apocalypse! You'll just hole up with
your good bread.
I encourage you to make
bread baking your New Year's resolution. It's so much easier and tastier than
those vast, pesky abstractions like patience or compassion or gratitude.
I first made a version of this recipe in 2006, when the New
York Times ran Jim Lahey's No-Knead Bread. And, like many people--including my
mother, brother, and friend Peggy, to whom I forwarded the recipe--I couldn't
quite believe it. Because I had kneaded my share of bread in my soytastic,
hairy-armpit life, believe me. I had warmed oats and molasses and millet and
baked up difficult, earnest loaves of difficult, earnest bread--rewarding in
its dense and oaty way, true, but nothing you would mistake for something other
than what it was. Although wow, now my brain is disgorging some unappetizing
memories of a lemon tahini loaf that tasted like I'd proofed the yeast in bile.
Also of some perfectly acceptable challah, which is a fun bread to make with
children on account of the braiding and the sweetness. But this bread, here, is
total bakery bread: crusty and yeasty and chewy--like something you'd wrap in a
tea towel and bicycle out to your lavender-scented picnic if you lived in
Provence, which I wish I did, not that I've ever been there. It's so good you'd
make it even if it weren't easy. But that's just it: it's totally easy.
Especially this recipe, mine, which is an amalgam Jim Lahey's perfect baking
method with the quick-rise dough from Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day with
my own addition of vinegar for an instant sourdoughness and whole grains for
goodness. You can refrigerate the dough for up to two weeks, and the older it
gets, the sourer: beery and almost cheesy, in a delicious way that will drive
your kitten mad with bready lust.
Yes, it might take a little getting the hang of. If you've
made bread before, then the dough is damper than what you're used to. It will,
in fact, seem all wrong. Just go with it. Even if things go a bit awry: the
loaf might stick to your hands or the board, and you'll just want to sprinkle
everything with flour and use a light touch. Keep calm and carry on--and
prepare to be addicted. Happy New Year!
Fantastic Fearless Five-Minute Bread
Makes 3 loaves
Active time: 5 minutes; total time: 4 hours
This is a combination of Jim Lahey's no-knead bread recipe,
which ran in the New York Times a few years ago, and the simple crusty bread
recipe from Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day--a book that you should hunt
down if making bread turns out to be your thing (the pumpernickel in that book,
for example, is worth the cover price). Experiment with different flours, or
find something you like and stick with it; the cost, in terms of both time and
money, should discourage all fear.
3 cups warm water
1 1/2 tablespoons yeast (2 packages)
1 1/2 - 2 tablespoons kosher salt, depending on your
saltiness preference (or half as much table salt)
1 tablespoon white vinegar
6 1/2 cups flour (In the bread pictured, I used 3 cups
white, 3 cups whole wheat, and 1/4 cup each ground flax and wheat germ. My usual recipe is 2 cups white, 2 cups
wheat, 1 cup white wheat, 1 cup rye, and 1/4 cup each ground flax and wheat
germ; this makes a quite dense and grainy and wholesome loaf. Make it with all
white flour, and your kids will fall to their knees in gratitude--or mine will,
if you invite them over.)
Cornmeal
Pour the water into a large bowl or plastic container--one
that you won't miss, since it may be in the fridge for a few days--then
sprinkle in the yeast, salt, and vinegar. Use a wooden spoon to stir in the
flours, and mix until there are no dry patches.
The dough's texture may seem
all wrong: too loose, too shaggy, too sticky. This is fine. Cover it with
plastic wrap or a shower cap and let it rest and rise at a warm room
temperature for at least 2 hours and up to 5 hours.
At this point, bake it or refrigerate it for up to two weeks
to bake later. To bake it: sprinkle some flour across the surface of the dough
and use a knife to cut off a piece that's about a third of it; refrigerate the
remaining dough. Turn the dough in your hands to stretch its surface, pulling
it under to create a taut, rounded top and a gathered-up bottom (imagine that
you're giving the dough a face lift and tucking all the baggy, extra skin
underneath). You will want to do this kind of quickly, keeping your fingers
moving lightly over the surface of the dough, rather than plunging them inside,
where they will stick. If your hands get doughy, stop what you're doing, wash
and dry them, reflour the dough, and try again.
Sprinkle a pizza peel or wooden cutting board heavily with
flour then lightly with cornmeal, put the loaf on it, sprinkle the top with
flour, cover it lightly with a dish towel, and let it rest for 40 minutes (if
you're using refrigerated dough, increase this rest time to 1 1/2 hours).
Half an hour before the dough is ready, heat the oven to
450, and put a heavy, covered pot inside to heat. I use a Corning ceramic
baking dish with a glass lid, but I used to use my enameled cast iron Dutch
oven (over time, I felt like I was ruining that pot, though). Cast iron,
enamel, Pyrex, or ceramic all work well, so long as it holds at least 2 quarts
and has a lid. Don't burn yourself, okay?
When the dough has rested, use a serrated or very sharp
knife to slash an X across its top; do this with authority, so that the knife
doesn't stick and so that the slashes are a good quarter-inch deep. Now pull
the pot out of the oven, remove the lid, put the loaf in X-side up, replace the
lid, and pop it into the oven. Did that go okay? Not so great? The dough stuck
a little to the board and your hands and dumped into the pot at a weird angle?
Don't fret. It will figure itself out in the oven.
Bake the dough for 25 minutes, covered, then remove the
cover and bake another 15 minutes. At this point, it should be beautifully
browned. Cool on a rack before slicing, or you will end up with a mess of damp,
shaggy crumbs. I know you're going to eat it hot anyways, but I just wanted to
have said that.
Do you use white bread flour? Or all purpose flour? Can't wait to try this!
ReplyDeleteShannon, I've used both for this. Either is fine, though I think the bread flour makes a slightly crustier crust.
DeleteI have quietly followed you since Ben was a toddler, and lost you for a while in the last year. So glad to have found you again! :) That bread sounds fabulous.
ReplyDeleteDon't know how I missed this the first time around...man, does time fly. Thank you for redirecting!!
ReplyDelete